Ahobilam is considered as a must visit place for any vaishnavite. Me being a vaishnavite and also a sishya of Ahobila mutt, it took so many years to visit Ahobilam. But finally it happened last weekend (Jan8 – Jan 9, 2011).
I went to Ahobilam from
Bangalore with 4 friends Jithu, Vinodh, Sanjay and Guru. While I knew one person (Jithu) very well, one more (Vinodh) relatively well, I haven’t met other two before. After this trip, even they became nice friends of mine. We went in Maruti Swift.
Day 1: Jan 8, 2011
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| Bangalore-Ahobilam route map (via Kadappa) |
Vinodh, Sanjay and Guru started from BTM at 4:50AM, I joined them in silk board at 5AM and Jithu joined us at 5:45AM in KR Puram. We took
Bangalore-Kolar-Madanapalle-Rayachoti-Kadappa-Allagadda-Ahobilam route (approx 400kms). We took a break at 8:30AM in Madanapalli for breakfast (Thanks to Vinodh’s mom for preparing Idli). Regarding road condition, while
Bangalore to Kolar road (67 kms) was relatively good, it was foggy and we couldn't go beyond 50KMPH. Road from Kolar to Rayachoti (170 kms) was very bad. Every 100mts we had to handle a heavily damaged portion of road. After Rayachoti, the road was good till Allagadda (135 kms). Allagadda to Ahobilam (31 kms) is a narrow road.
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| Ahobila Mutt |
We reached Ahobilam at 1:30 PM and had a good lunch at Ahobila Mutt (
Lower Ahobilam). Though we already informed Mutt about our visit and requested for accommodation, they were not able to provide accommodation immediately after we reached there. Even Mutt administrators were helpless since there was good crowd. Actually Ahobila Mutt has built some new residential places and also in the process of building more. There is a hotel run by APTDC, Hotel Haritha which also provides accomodation. We were told that we can get an accommodation at 6PM.
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| Ahobilam temples route map |
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| 6. Karanja Narasimmar |
We hired a guide (Prem Kumar aged 15) and started our dharshan. The plan was to visit 5 narasimmars on Day1 and other 4 on the Day2. The temples can be seen in different groups (for example, Paavana can be grouped with Ahobila or can also been grouped with Chatravada and Yogananda). So unless you are very sure, it is better you just tell the guide about your schedule and leave the route planning part to him. I am numbering the temples the same way they are referred to by archakas, mutt and local people.
We started at 2:30 PM in our car (actually Vinod
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| 5. Varaha (Krodha) Narasimmar |
h’s car :P). First we went to 6. Karanja Narasimmar temple. Then we went near Ahobila Narasimma temple and parked our car. From then onwards, we had to walk for seeing other narasimmars. Since we were told that Ahobila Narasimmar temple will be opened till 7PM and we have to climb down before it gets darker, we bypassed Ahobila Narasimmar and started climbing up the hill.
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| 7. Malola Narasimmar |
We reached 5. Varaha (Krodha) narasimmar temple at 3:10 PM, 7. Malola Narasimmar temple at 3:25 PM and 8. Jwala Narasimmar temple at 4:30 PM. The happiness which spreads inside us after reaching Jwala cannot be explained by words. After an hour long walk, we have to cross a small water falls and ever red Raktakundam (well it is actually a color which is close to red wavelength. It is believed that it was the place were Narasimmar washed his hand after tearing apart Hiranya Kasibu) to reach that small and great Jwala Narasimmar temple surrounded by scary and at the same time scenic green hill.
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| 8. Jawala Narasimmar |
Though we were eager to see Prahladha Gruha and Ugra sthamba (They are not part of 9 narasimmar temples), it was already getting darker and our small guide wanted us to start getting down before it becomes completely dark though we weren’t in the mood to leave that place. If Prahladha Gruha and Ugra Sthamba (it will be a tough climb) also has to be seen, then one should start in the morning and see them also along with 5 narasimmar temples as they all are almost in the same route.
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| Raktakundam |
I would rate the difficulty of climbing between easy and moderate for a person with an average physique. If some one is scared that we have to walk through sloppy rocks, the happy news is that the complete path has steps.
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| 4. Ahobila Narasimmar |
While getting down, guide took us through a different path (calling it as short cut) which was not having steps. It took almost 45 mins to get down but the walk was nice and interesting across the flow of water from hill. We reached
4. Ahobila Narasimmar temple at 6 PM and had dharshan.
After that we went back to Ahobila Mutt, got a room (with 3 beds), refreshed, had delicious Upma served at Mutt and had a good sleep with the satisfaction that we completed seeing 5 Narasimmars as planned. FYI, Ahobila Mutt charges just Rs. 400/- for a 3 bed room (1 day).
Day 2: Jan 9, 2011
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| Lakshmi Narasimmar |
We woke up early and started from room at 5AM itself to see Lakshmi Narasimmar temple. Though this temple is not one among 9 narasimmar temples, it is considered to be the main temple.
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| Path to Pavana Narasimmar |
It was good that we went to temple early in the morning. We had a chance to see Dhanur Maasa Seva with Ghoshti and most importantly we got delicious Pongal as prasadam ;). After having breakfast (in a Iyengar hotel opposite to Mutt), we started our Day 2 Narasimmar temple visit at 7:45 AM in Jeep. Pavana and Bhargava Narasimmar temples can be reached through walk (which would take too much of time) or through jeep/tractor.
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| 9. Pavana Narasimmar |
After a tough 16km travel in a path (I don’t like to call it a road) full of heavy jerks, we reached
9. Pavana Narasimmar temple at 8:50 AM. Saw some structures established by tribes opposite to temple where they give bali (goat, hen etc.) to God on Saturdays. This kind of tribal practices in a traditional vaishnavite temple is unusual. But the history of God marrying Chenchulakshmi (Mahalakshmi who took avataram as a tribal girl) explains for that practice.
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| 2. Yogananda Narasimmar |
We started back from Pavana at 9:15 AM and visited
2. Yogananda Narasimmar temple (10:30 AM) and 3. Chatravata Narasimmar temple (10:45 AM) which were on the way back lower Ahobilam. From there, we took another route for
1. Bhargava Narasimmar temple. Even that path (again not a road) was tough to travel except that it wasn’t long (just 2kms from lower Ahobilam). Flowers near that temple which look the same as thiruman of ahobila mutt is a wonder!
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| 3. Chatravada Narasimmar |
Though we got some negative feedback from people that we may not be able to cover those 4 narasimmars before afternoon, we finally did it. Thanks to the jeep driver who took us to Pavana in just 1 hr. We heard that tractors take almost 2:30 hrs to reach Paavana from Lower ahobilam but on the other hand it is less tough travel compared to jeep. But we wanted a quick travel and not a comfortable one. We paid Rs. 1800/- for jeep and gave Rs. 300/- to guide (though Ahobila Mutt website suggests only Rs. 200/- as guide charges).
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| 1. Bhargava Narasimmar |
We packed our things, had lunch (Pongal, vada and curd rice) in the same Iyengar hotel opposite to mutt and started back to
Bangalore at 12:40 PM. For a change, we took another route (
Ahobilam-Allagadda-Jammalamugudu-Tadibatri-Anantpur-Somandepalle-Chikballapur-Bangalore) for our return journey. While the worst road from Allagadda to Jammalamagudu (60 kms) disappointed us for taking that route, the nice road from Jammalmudugu to Tadibatri and Tadibadri to Anantpur relieved us. Then came the 4 lane Anantpur-Bangalore highway on which we were literally flying over 120 KMPH with frequent ‘ah’, ‘uh’ and ‘iyyo’ from Vindoh since it was a rash driver named Karthik on driver seat ;)
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| Thiruman shaped flower |
I would definitely recommend Anantpur route compared to Kadappa route barring the worst experience you may have to bear between Jammalamadugu and Allagadda. I am not sure how much Naxal threat is there in Anantpur area. We didn’t face any problem. We reached
Bangalore city outers at 8PM, had nice dinner together at Adayar Ananda Bhavan before getting down at our respective places.
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| Ahobilam-Bangalore route map (via Anantpur) |
As Vinodh told at the end of trip (he had been to Ahobilam earlier but was not able to cover all the 9 narasimmar temples), the trip was convincing especially because we were able to cover all the temples in effectively just 1 day and most of them had archakas (not locked).
Ilayaraaja’s songs in music player during the total 800 km travel was just awesome! Of course, travelling with friends is always a delight. I would like to tell two words at the end of this blog.
“
Mission accomplished”
I visited Ahobilam again and added some more details in the following blog post. Please do read that also.
http://karthikcpt.blogspot.in/2012/02/ahobilam-gandi-kadiri-trip.html
